"Dark-skinned," is the phrase most commonly used by the media to describe Li Rucheng. But in the warm sunshine of Xishuangbanna, this feature has taken on a different meaning — if he doesn't speak, he could easily be mistaken for an indigenous local in the streets. It seems that Li Rucheng embraces this dual identity. Since the establishment of Youngor in 2007, Henma Industrial Investment Holdings Co., Ltd. was formed through a joint venture with Ningbo Yike Technology Industrial Co., Ltd., Yunma Industrial Co., Ltd., and the PLA Military Equipment Research Institute under the General Logistics Department. Hemp became a core focus, and even some employees have become somewhat "experts" in the field, welcoming guests to visit Youngor's "hemp backyard."
Hemp production began with a strict rule: "Please do not take pictures." A uniformed staff member reminded a visiting NPC deputy, and all visitors were politely turned down when they tried to photograph the workshop. According to base personnel, some employees even attempted to secretly learn from the site, using pinhole cameras. The entire base isn't large, with few workers in each workshop, yet it covers the full production process from raw hemp to yarn, with a distinct sense of military discipline. This might be the most advanced hemp production line in the world.
In 2004, officials from Yunnan Province visited Liao Xilong, the former minister of the PLA General Logistics Department, who had spent over 30 years in Yunnan. They expressed confusion about the limited use of Yunnan’s rich cannabis resources and hoped the Army Logistics Department would assist with scientific research. Liao Xilong passed the message to Major General Zhang Jianchun, head of the military supplies and equipment institute. At that time, Zhang and his team had developed two new cannabis varieties, "Yunma 1" and "Yunma 2," which retained the plant’s beneficial traits but lacked the potential for drug extraction. They renamed them "hemp."
During the "two sessions," Li Rucheng learned about the project from Zhang and saw great potential. However, while hemp technology had the basic conditions for industrial development, real industrialization required support from textile and garment companies. After careful consideration, Li finally decided to "steadfastly grow an industry that benefits the country and its people." He believed this was both Youngor’s original mission and a historical responsibility.
In 2005, with state approval, Youngor and the Central Military Commission officially invested in projects such as hemp planting, fiber processing, and comprehensive utilization. Today, infrastructure, construction, and equipment are complete, and the plant is operational, producing 5,000 tons of bast fiber annually. A unique industrial chain from planting to product design and sales is taking shape.
By 2007, Youngor products started being supplied to the military. In 2008, they delivered 4 million pairs of hemp socks, and 10 million in 2009. Hemp training combat suits are currently being tested, and some hemp clothing is now available on the market. Since December 2008, test marketing of shirts, suits, and underwear has begun, receiving positive consumer feedback.
The financial benefits of the hemp project are clear. Yikeke’s 2009 interim report showed a gross margin of 20.92% for hemp business, higher than the 14.15% for garment accessories. Despite being launched only in April, the project already outperformed other business lines in profitability.
China faces a major challenge in raw material supply. Although it processes the most fibers globally, there are significant gaps in cotton, wool, and bast fiber imports. Hemp, a natural fiber with Chinese intellectual property, represents a breakthrough in the high-end fabric market. Its environmental benefits, health advantages, and high added value make it highly valuable. In Europe and the U.S., hemp clothing can cost twice as much as cotton. Global demand for hemp fabric grows at 30% annually, and Youngor plans to invest 50% of its hemp products in international markets.
Zhang Jianchun’s research team also explored hemp’s military applications. Today, the hemp industry includes 13 sectors, from fiber processing to biofuel, with many achievements applied to national economic construction. China’s hemp technology is among the world’s best.
Youngor aims to plant 10 million hemp plants by 2012, producing one million tons of fiber annually, creating jobs for 1 million rural workers, and helping 3 million people escape poverty. The project brings social, economic, and environmental benefits.
Military-civilian cooperation, agricultural development, low-carbon practices, and global market influence all converge in Youngor’s hemp initiative. What once seemed like a dream is now becoming reality.
Li Rucheng has become a leading voice in the hemp industry. He often wears multiple sets of hemp underwear during business trips, but now only two or three are needed. Its moisture-wicking, breathable, anti-microbial, and UV-resistant properties are always praised. He is also passionate about building a hemp living museum across the country.
At the Beijing Dongdan store, Youngor presents a high-end experience, incorporating the Han Ma brand into its broader clothing lineup. These museums are expanding nationwide, with hundreds planned in the coming years.
Industry analysts once questioned Youngor’s aging brand image. But in recent years, the company has actively rebranded, making high-profile appearances at events like CHIC and collaborating with international brands. The expansion into home textiles, women’s wear, and daily necessities shows hemp’s growing influence.
Despite Youngor’s real estate and investment ventures, clothing remains central to Li Rucheng’s vision. In 2009, despite contributing only 450 million yuan in profit, the apparel division generated 6.9 billion yuan in cash flow and built strong brand equity.
As Li Rucheng crosses the river barefooted, joking with locals over a traditional Dai meal, he talks about his vision: “I believe in numbers. Employee income, tax revenue, investor returns, and business growth all matter.†For the leader of China’s largest apparel company, he admires small European firms for their refined, stable operations.
Though Li once joked about retiring at 60, he now acknowledges the challenges of the new generation. Whether he stays or not, the future of Youngor and hemp looks bright — especially under the sun of Xishuangbanna.
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