In 1949, when the People's Republic of China was founded, the average per capita was only 7 feet cloth. It could not make an adult's clothes or a blanket. The per capita expenditure of the clothing and consumer families in the whole country was only 6.5 yuan. "Underwear is worn" is a true portrayal of the situation at that time. By 2007, the national chemical fiber production will reach 24.57 million tons, 8533% more than the 28.46 million tons in 1978, accounting for more than one-third of the world's total output, ranking the highest in the world. From cotton cloth to chemical fiber, the Chinese people's clothing went through a revolution. "People inadvertently can not refuse the grace of chemical fiber!" In the days without chemical fiber, cotton could hardly afford to alone record the weight of hundreds of millions of people in clothing 60 years ago, that the new movie alternates between old and new, will not lack such a classic picture: the streets, people's clothing retains the style of the Republic of China, the body of the cheese does not affect the face filled with a smile, identity Talented people can afford some exquisite fabric "Western fabric" or suit material suits and tunic ... ... regardless of political parties, regardless of North and South, are consciously or unconsciously into this profound change in the face of China's social torrent. Du Chau, president of China National Textile and Apparel Industry Association, introduced that in 1949, when the People's Republic of China was founded, only 7-foot cloth was available per person, making it impossible for an adult to make a quilt or a quilt. The average per-capita expenditure on clothing and consumer families in the country was only 6.5 yuan. "Underwear is worn" is a true portrayal of the situation at that time. Cotton is not only a shortage of livelihood supplies, but also an important bargaining chip in the stable market. Like the current exchange rate, stock index, oil price, etc., as the market signal, the price fluctuations of "two white and one black" (referring to grain, gauze and coal) often have the magic power of affecting the economy and thus have also become the most concern of the new regime One of the most challenging national and livelihood events. This point, from the earliest establishment of the State Council agencies also reflected. Ji Guo-biao, former vice minister of the Ministry of Textile Industry, recalled that at that time Chang'an Avenue in Beijing was one of the earliest ten ministries of the State Council from east to west, the Ministry of Foreign Trade, the Ministry of Coal Industry, the Ministry of Textile Industry and the Ministry of Public Security. Column. With the streets now covered the supermarkets, restaurants, like the 1950s, in the country streets, cloth shops and tailors everywhere, and some cloth shops, although the supply of high-grade fabrics such as silk, but wait until the top covered with thick dust , Few people are interested. Who do the clothes, the first buy old coarse cloth, and then find the tailor shop, tailor-made. Can go to the clothing store in the state-run department stores to buy clothes become a lot of people envy. In rural areas, the basic scope of shopping locked in a village of supply and marketing cooperatives. A scarcity of goods arrival, always lined up in front of a long queue. In the era of material shortage, buy cloth need cloth tickets. Home to the Lunar New Year cloth tickets, was willing to be used to make new clothes, new quilt. Children are especially looking forward to the New Year, in addition to New Year's money, to wear new clothes is the biggest temptation. People follow the consumer philosophy of "three years in new years, three years in old age, three seams in seams," and the eldest brother's clothes are worn by the old ones and make up the elder brothers; the elder brothers wear the old ones and make up the old ones The third child wear; turn the youngest one, often covered with patches, washed white. In the days without chemical fiber, it is indeed difficult for cotton cloth to bear the weight of dressing hundreds of millions of people alone. By the 1960s, especially during the difficult three-year period, cotton production dropped sharply and the demand for textiles fell short of demand. In order to thrifty, apparel generally choose strong fabric and durable wash color, but also to consolidate the blue, gray, black as the main color of clothing status. The domestic cloth made of the liberation equipment, Lenin equipment, tooling, monotonous color, style is more or less the same, more into the militarization, revolution and standardization of the political elements, reflecting the plain that people intentionally or unintentionally stressed their position tend to intention. People first acquaintance "really good", chemical fiber won almost paranoid love Ji Guotao first put on "good" (Dacron, that is, polyester) was in 1963. At this point, one of the witnesses and witnesses of establishing the new Chinese chemical fiber industry is no different from ordinary people. In July 1960, the first large-scale viscose fiber plant in China - Baoding Chemical Fiber Joint Factory (now Baoding Swan Chemical Fiber Group Co., Ltd.) was completed and put into production. The production capacity of 5000 tons of viscose filament yarn is not too large now, People come to remember that since the early 60s of last century, chemical fiber clothing can be seen on the market as a rare commodity. Before that, people regarded "glass stockings (nylon stockings)," "rayon (rayon) Headdress "," nylon umbrella (nylon fabric umbrella) "and so on for several treasures. One of the most vivid memories of childhood memories of journalists is that while adults show off their valuable "elite" shirts and "triple" trousers, they talk about novelties that belong only to that era ─ "I heard that foreign People pay attention to wear cotton, 'really good' but the cheapest, really do not understand! 'And the biggest dream of reporters in primary school, it is "June Day" to have a set of blue pants, white shirt, the standard dress, and white If the shirt is "really good", I do not know how much envy and jealousy attracted around the eyes. Chemical fiber won so near-paranoid love that time with direct, full reason: wearing crisp, dirt-resistant, decent, and the most affordable is that without cloth tickets. In the 1970s, the state decided to develop chemical fiber on a large scale and successively built four major chemical fiber bases: Shanghai Jinshan, Liaoyang Chemical Fiber, Tianjin Chemical Fiber and Sichuan Vinylon Plant. By the end of the 1970s, a complete system of textile industry was established, and the general public's demand for clothing was basically satisfied. Du Yuzhou introduction, at the same time, also established a number of textile bases, such as Beijing, Zhengzhou, Henan, Shaanxi Xianyang, as well as the famous "blue sky" (Shanghai, Qingdao, Tianjin). At that time, various kinds of machinery used by the textile industry were basically the "domestic products" of the world. Authoritative information from China Textile Industry Association said that by 2007, the national chemical fiber production 24.57 million tons, 28.46 million tons in 1978 increased by 8533%, accounting for more than 1/3 of the world's total output, ranking first in the world; and 60 When Baoding Plant was built in early 1980s, the output was only 10,000 tons, accounting for only 0.3% of the world's total output. Today, chemical fiber has accounted for 65% of China's total consumption of textile raw materials. As China's largest export of textiles and clothing, in 2007 175.6 billion US dollars worth of total exports, more than 1/3 of the fabric and clothing created by the chemical fiber. Life is ubiquitous, chemical fiber outstanding performance sought after Today, thanks to fiber given, urban residents clothing consumption basically changed from "clothing to wear" to "buy clothes to wear." We have also entered a "pay attention to wear cotton" era, of course, chemical treatment of non-crumpled cotton; chemical fiber is still flooding the market, people's taste has quietly changed. As a senior expert in domestic apparel materials science, Professor Zhou LuYing Beijing Institute of Clothing Clear and convincing: the traditional chemical fiber airtight, easy to static electricity, hygroscopicity is changing the characteristics of the new chemical fiber made to give the new apparel The new concept of fabric, such as Coolmax, known as "Kumiss," is known as the "most well-known" source for the most popular, but turns the traditional fiber's circular cross-section into a quatrefoil equal to four channels between fibers, Can produce a good "capillary effect." Used to make clothing, wearing comfort and permeability is far better than pure cotton. Jiubibu is interested in introducing a variety of technical ways to create new chemical fiber, such as multi-different, complex, copolymerization and blending, nano, fine denier and ultrafine, paging technology, such as ultra-fine fibers that have been industrialized in China , Made by the blending method, each g length of 20,000 km, equivalent to Shanghai to New York distance, with natural fibers unimaginable superior performance. Another example is the composite fiber has a variety of cross-sectional morphology: parallel, skin core, orange-shaped and island-shaped island, etc., the performance of the fiber varies with the cross-sectional shape of different; for the fiber cross-section shape and the complex relationship between the performance of domestic In-depth research has been conducted and new products of differentiated fibers based on these studies have been introduced. In the field of fashion, the outstanding performance of chemical fiber is also more and more sought after. Ms. Hu, who is involved in fashion design in Hong Kong and Shenzhen, has a deep feeling: "Nowadays, it is unthinkable that we leave chemical fiber in this business!" She explained that the performance of natural fibers is always limited, while the personal pursuit of fashion Is unlimited, which must rely on the differential function of chemical fiber. "Chemical fiber in life is everywhere, all-pervasive, people inadvertently, unconsciously refused to not the grace of chemical fiber!" This rayon slender, how much depth into our lives? Zhu Minru, chairman of China Industrial Textiles Association, gave a briefing on nonwovens, one of the branches of chemical fiber industry. It can be proved that the output of nonwovens in China has exceeded 5000 tons in the 1970s and 1980s and has now exceeded 172 Million tons, becoming the world's largest producer of nonwovens, nonwovens industry is more than 20% per year growth rate. Nonwovens are becoming more and more diverse in terms of variety and processing methods. New technologies and materials have come into being one after another. Nonwovens have penetrated into all aspects of our daily life, such as cosmetic masks, feminine hygiene products, baby diapers, shopping bags, wipes ... On the other hand, the role of industrial nonwovens products in large-scale engineering applications and emergency public health emergencies is also remarkable: in 1998, the country was able to combat extraordinary floods. Because of its special structure and properties, non-woven geotextiles Effective protection of the embankment, to prevent piping and pay special attention; in 2003 to combat "atypical pneumonia" in 2009 to prevent "a flow", non-woven materials to produce a variety of surgical suits, protective clothing, masks, sick clothes, bed supplies And so on, effectively blocking the virus, to prevent the role of cross-infection irreplaceable. Take the "processing" hat, the Chinese textile and garment industry has become a leader in the Chinese textile industry, Du Yuzhou from a more macro perspective to define his industry: "China's textile and garment industry is not 5 years Before, not even 25 years ago, 60 years ago, textile and garment industry. "Why say so? He explained that in many articles, including articles by some experts, when it comes to China's textile industry, it is still said that middle and low-grade raw materials are mainly used for exporting garments. Processing of 50% of export garments depends on the processing of fabrics in China. Set of conceptualized. In fact, they did not see the progress made by China's textile industry over the past few years as the economy developed. In value terms, the value of exports in 1980 was 4.4 billion U.S. dollars, reaching 53 billion U.S. dollars in 2000 and 175.6 billion U.S. dollars in 2007 Accounting for 30% of the world, while the trade surplus even reached 100.4 billion U.S. dollars. From the proportion of processing trade, exports are now not 50% of the processing. At present, the share of the general trade in China's textile exports has risen to 72.4%, surpassing the national average. China's textile and apparel industry already has the advantages of the entire industrial chain, from spinning, weaving and dyeing to finished products, which are not the same as the other manufacturing industries in China that only process finished products. From spinning to fabric to clothing all made in China has accounted for nearly 3/4, textile processing trade has dropped to 24%, less than 1/4. "This is because the quality of Chinese products has improved." Du Chau pointed out that some people do not understand that the increase in trade frictions is caused mainly by the fact that the technical level of textiles is not high and too many low-end products are caused. "On the contrary, if we are of a low quality, some countries do not need to impose restrictions on political methods and special protection methods, especially in the developed countries, which are deeply alarmed by the improvement of our quality and competitiveness ". He said that in 2002, the United States Trade Commission conducted a survey on the competition among the major suppliers in the world after the textile quota was eliminated in 2005. The conclusion was that China's textile and clothing industry could provide any variety and any quality of clothing at the most competitive prices And textiles, making it the preferred target for large US apparel and textile companies and retailers. "Because of this, only a parliament will allow the government to impose restrictions on us by special safeguard measures." Du Chau said with pride that China's textile and garment industry is the largest textile and apparel industry in the world. China is also the world's largest fiber consumer market and China is the largest textile and apparel exporter. Number 7 feet Vs 14 kilograms 1949, China only 7 feet cloth per capita, clothing and consumer spending per capita national expenditure of only 6.5 yuan. In 1978, the per capita fiber consumption in China was 2.88 kg, which is 40% of the world average; it reached 4.1 kg in 1980; it reached 8 kg in 2000 and nearly doubled in 20 years; now it has exceeded 14 kg The average level of 127%, of which 12 kg clothing, industrial use 2 kg. In total, China's total fiber consumption is three times that of the United States. In 1981, the expenditure on clothing per capita for urban China was 67.56 yuan, up from 1042 yuan in 2007; in 1978, the per capita clothing consumption expenditure of rural residents in China was 14.74 yuan, up from 192.6 yuan in 2007. From 1978 to 2000, the expenditure on clothing and urban residents in urban and rural areas at a comparable rate, with an average annual increase of 7.45%, is higher than the national growth rate of 6.95% of domestic consumption in the same period. 285,000 tons Vs 23,890,000 tons In 1978, the output of China's cotton was 2,040,000 tons, reaching 6.7 million tons in 2007; the chemical fiber output in 1978 was 285,000 tons, reaching 23.89 million tons in 2007; in 2007, the textile industry of large-scale enterprises The output value of the textile industry reached 303.369 billion yuan; the total volume of fiber processing was 35.3 million tons, an increase of 1179% over the 2.76 million tons in 1978; the output of yarn was 20.4 million tons, up from 2.382 million tons in 1978 An increase of 737.8%; the output of chemical fiber was 24.57 million tons, 8533% more than the 284.6 thousand tons in 1978; the output of cotton cloth was 48.577 billion meters, an increase of 340% over 110.3 billion meters in 1978; the garments output reached 20.159 billion pieces. In 2007, the entire industry used about 6.7 million tons of domestic natural fibers, which directly affected the livelihood of over 100 million peasants. At present, China's chemical fiber, yarn, cloth, woolen, silk fabrics, garments and other output rank first in the world, fiber processing accounts for about 50% of the world. 2.431 billion Vs 175.616 billion In 1978, China's textile and garment exports amounted to 2.43 billion U.S. dollars, accounting for 3.5% of the world's total. In 2000, it reached 53.8 billion U.S. dollars, accounting for 14.8%. In 2007, it reached 175.616 billion U.S. dollars, accounting for 30% of the world total. An increase of 7,217% over 1978; of which, textile exports reached 60,043 billion U.S. dollars and apparel exports posted 115,074 million U.S. dollars. From the perspective of export product structure, the proportion of textile exports in 2007 has risen to 34.47%, and the overall competitiveness of the industry chain has risen rapidly. The quality and grade of export apparel products have obviously increased, with 40% -50% of middle- and high-end apparel products taken from the mode of trade Looking at the export of textile and apparel from general processing to processing, the proportion of general trade has risen to 72.41% in 2007, while the processing trade accounted for only 21.23%. The proportion of general trade in textiles reached 72.75% and that of general apparel amounted to 72.23%. In the seven years from 2001 to 2007, China exported a total of 735.4 billion U.S. dollars of textile and apparel, 1.64 times that of the 22 years from 1978 to 2000. In 2000, the proportion of industrial textiles accounted for 12% of the total fiber processing volume, currently increased to 17%, the growth rate of growth over clothing needs. (Qu Jian) ​​Further Reading Innovation, From Technology to Equipment At present, the textile industry has completed the outline of the development of China's textile science and technology focusing on pre-2010 phases, identified 28 major key technological breakthroughs and 10 new sets of technical equipment and innovation goals, And great achievements have been made. Of the scientific evaluations conducted in the 2007 industry review, 143 were rewarded by the industry; 9 were awarded the Hong Kong Sangma Foundation Science and Technology Award; 2 were awarded the second prize by the State Science and Technology Awards and the second by four science and technology progress awards. Ten sets of equipment have eight kinds of key equipment into key national support major equipment development directory. Outline of the 14 kinds of new fibers have gratifying small test, pilot or industrial breakthrough. Textile, silk, hemp textiles, fabrics, garments, new technology and environmental pulp, new dyeing and finishing process, high and new technology processing technology, biotechnology, digital technology, nanotechnology, low light electromechanical technology, photochemical technology, information network technology , Laser technology, computer integrated manufacturing technology, ERP enterprise resource management technology and a large number of National Natural Science Foundation of institutions of higher learning, some macromolecular assembly, modified high-function biomass fiber, smart textiles, silk genetic engineering and other applied basic research Smooth progress. Textile industry independent innovation, more technical support provided by the industry. Domestic textile machinery and equipment technology level and market share have significantly improved. Textile machinery industry equipment to achieve a major breakthrough in textile technology and new product development to provide a strong guarantee for the application of independent innovation technology significantly reduce the cost of investment. The advanced spinning frame in domestic cotton spinning machine is domestically produced. The domestic market share of domestic carding and carding complete sets of equipment reaches over 65%. A batch of new technology and equipment such as digital printing and netting system has entered the industrialized mass production stage. The finishing level after printing and dyeing has remarkably increased , The quality of domestic printing and dyeing fabrics improved significantly. Textile exports to an average annual growth rate of 20%; 2007 garment exports self-sufficiency rate has risen to more than 70%. China Textile Industry Association Du Yu Chau China's textile and garment industry is well-known in history, so there is the Silk Road. According to the experience of international development, if a country's GDP per capita reaches more than 1,000 U.S. dollars, the expenditure on clothing and consumer goods will start to increase at a faster pace. If it reaches more than 3,000 U.S. dollars, the demand for fashion will rise - we have now entered this stage. Zhou Ying, professor of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology With the improvement of life quality and the renewal of concept, people are beginning to return to natural and natural materials. However, chemical fiber has not been changed. Chemical fiber materials are developing toward natural or even supernatural functions such as moisture absorption, ventilation, prevention Static electricity, UV protection and so on.